How to Tile Around a Toilet (Step-by-Step)

Tiling around a toilet is one of those jobs that looks intimidating but is completely manageable once you understand the approach. The curves, the flange, the bolts — it all seems fiddly. And it is. But fiddly isn't the same as hard.

Here's how to do it right.

Should You Remove the Toilet First?

Yes. Remove it. This is the single best piece of advice in this article.

Tiling around a toilet that's still in place is possible, but it produces worse results every time. You'll have awkward gaps, visible cut lines, and silicone-filled seams that look amateur and collect grime.

Removing a toilet takes 15–20 minutes. Reinstalling takes about the same. The payoff is a clean, professional-looking floor that goes fully under the toilet with no visible cuts around the base.

To remove the toilet:

1. Turn off the water supply valve behind the toilet
2. Flush and hold the handle to drain the tank
3. Sponge or shop-vac remaining water from the bowl and tank
4. Disconnect the supply line
5. Remove the two bolts at the base (the ones with decorative caps)
6. Rock the toilet gently to break the wax seal
7. Lift straight up and set it on cardboard or a drop cloth
8. Stuff a rag into the drain opening to block sewer gas

The whole process requires a wrench, a sponge, and about zero skill. Don't let this step stop you.

Understanding the Flange

The toilet flange is the round fitting that connects to the drain pipe and sits on (or slightly above) the floor. When you tile, the finished tile surface needs to come up close to the flange — typically within 1/4" — and the flange should sit on top of the tile or be flush with it.

Critical point: If your flange was sitting on the old floor surface and you're adding tile, the flange is now recessed. A recessed flange causes leaks because the wax ring can't seal properly.

Solutions:

• Flange extender ring: A plastic ring that bolts on top of the existing flange to raise it to the new floor height. Cheap and effective.
• Extra-thick wax ring: Works for minor height differences (1/4" or less).
• Replace the flange: If the existing one is damaged or corroded, now's the time.

Measure your tile thickness plus thinset (usually 3/8"–1/2" total) and plan accordingly before you start tiling.

Templating the Cut

The hardest part of tiling around a toilet is cutting the curved shape around the flange. Here's how to template it:

Method 1: Cardboard Template

1. Take a piece of cardboard the same size as your tile
2. Position it where the tile will go, overlapping the flange area
3. Mark the curve of the flange opening on the cardboard
4. Cut the cardboard with scissors
5. Test the fit — adjust until it sits cleanly around the flange
6. Trace the cardboard shape onto your tile with a marker

This is low-tech and works great. Use thin cardboard that's easy to cut and adjust.

Method 2: Contour Gauge

A contour gauge (the comb-like tool that conforms to shapes) pressed against the flange gives you the curve instantly. Transfer it to the tile with a marker. Fast, accurate, and worth the $15 if you don't already own one.

Method 3: Direct Measurement

Measure the flange diameter (standard is 4" for the opening, with the flange ring slightly larger). Mark the center point on your tile, then draw the curve with a compass. This works when the flange falls in the middle or corner of a tile and you need a semicircle or quarter-circle cut.

Cutting the Curve

Curved cuts on tile require different tools than straight cuts. Here are your options, from most to least accessible:

Tile Nippers

For ceramic tile, nippers work surprisingly well. Score the cut line with a carbide pencil or the corner of a tile, then nibble away small bites with the nippers. Work slowly from the edge toward the line. You won't get a perfectly smooth curve, but it doesn't need to be perfect — the toilet base covers the rough edge.

Angle Grinder with Diamond Blade

This is the preferred method for porcelain. Mark your line, then carefully cut along it with the grinder. Make relief cuts (straight cuts from the tile edge to the curved line, spaced about 1/2" apart) first, then snap out the sections and clean up the curve. Wear eye and ear protection. Porcelain dust is no joke.

Wet Saw with Curved Cuts

You can make relief cuts on a wet saw too — a series of parallel straight cuts up to the curve line, then snap and clean up with nippers. Not as precise as an angle grinder, but it keeps the dust down.

Hole Saw / Diamond Core Bit

If the flange hole falls entirely within one tile (not on an edge), a 4" diamond core bit on a drill gives you a perfect circle. Drill from the finished face with water to cool the bit.

Step-by-Step Installation

With the toilet removed, flange prepped, and cuts planned, here's the sequence:

Step 1: Dry-Lay First

Set all tiles in the area dry (no thinset) to verify your cuts and layout. Check that tiles around the flange fit cleanly with consistent grout spacing. Adjust cuts before any adhesive is involved.

Step 2: Work Toward the Flange

Start tiling from your layout lines and work toward the toilet area. Full tiles go down first. The cut tiles around the flange are the last pieces in that section. This gives you the most flexibility to adjust.

Step 3: Set the Cut Tiles

Back-butter the cut tile pieces for better adhesion (spreading thinset on the back of the tile as well as the floor). Press firmly and make sure they're level with surrounding tiles. Use spacers as normal.

Step 4: Leave a Gap at the Flange

Don't butt the tile right against the flange. Leave a 1/4" gap. This allows for slight movement and makes it easier to seat the toilet. The toilet base will cover this gap entirely.

Step 5: Grout Everything

Once tiles are set and thinset has cured (24 hours minimum), grout the entire floor including around the flange area. Seal the grout after it cures.

Step 6: Reinstall the Toilet

1. Remove the rag from the drain
2. Install a new wax ring on the flange (always use a new one)
3. Lower the toilet straight down onto the flange bolts
4. Press down firmly and rock slightly to seat the wax ring
5. Hand-tighten the nuts, then snug with a wrench — do not overtighten or you'll crack the porcelain
6. Reconnect the water supply
7. Flush and check for leaks
8. Apply a thin bead of silicone caulk around the base (optional but recommended — use color-matched caulk)

Common Mistakes

• Not removing the toilet. Already covered this. Just do it.
• Forgetting the flange height. A recessed flange after tiling causes leaks. Plan for the thickness change.
• Overtightening the toilet bolts. Cracking a toilet after finishing a beautiful tile floor is a special kind of pain.
• Cutting tiles too tight to the flange. Leave that 1/4" gap. Tight cuts look precise but create problems.
• Skipping the dry lay. Discovering a bad cut after thinset has set is a miserable experience.

If you're planning a full bathroom floor and want to work out your layout and tile counts before you start cutting, TilePlan lets you visualize the whole layout and know exactly where your cuts will fall.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I tile around a toilet without removing it?

You can, but the results look noticeably worse. You'll have visible gaps and cut lines around the base. Removing the toilet is easy and takes 15–20 minutes. It's worth it.

Do I need a new wax ring when I reinstall the toilet?

Yes. Always. Wax rings are single-use — once compressed, they don't reseal properly. A new wax ring costs $3–$5. A leak costs far more.

How do I handle the flange height after adding tile?

If the tile raises the floor level, use a flange extender ring to bring the flange up to the new surface. The flange should be flush with or slightly above the finished tile.

What if the tile around the flange cracks during cutting?

It happens. That's why you buy extra tile (10–15% overage is standard). The pieces around the flange are hidden by the toilet base, so minor imperfections in the cut edge are invisible.

Should I caulk or grout around the toilet base?

Caulk. Use 100% silicone caulk that matches your grout color. Grout will crack because the toilet shifts slightly over time. Some codes require leaving the back uncaulked so leaks are visible rather than hidden — check your local requirements.